FINDING THE RIGHT KNIFE

1. Which knife line suits my cooking style?

The Damast line is ideal if you are looking for a precise, rust-resistant, and very well-balanced all-round knife. It is our most popular line among professional chefs and stands for strong cutting performance in daily use.

The Carbon line is suitable for anyone who wants to combine Japanese sharpness with more robustness and uncomplicated care.

The Gyuto line is particularly light, fast, and direct in its cut.

Izutsuki is the right choice for enthusiasts looking for maximum sharpness, hard traditional steels, and authentic Japanese cutting culture.
2. What is the difference between Damascus, Carbon, Gyuto, and Izutsuki?

Damascus combines a hard core steel with multi-layered damascus steel, standing for balance, precision, and visible quality.

Carbon uses a rust-resistant special steel with nitrogen and nitride, making the line more robust and easier to care for.

The Gyuto line is the lightest line in the range and offers a very free, fast knife feel.

Izutsuki is the hardest and sharpest line with up to 66 HRC and is aimed at anyone looking for uncompromising cutting performance.
3. Which blade shape do I need for vegetables, meat, or fish?

For vegetables, Nakiri, Kamagata, and smaller Mini-Gyuto shapes are particularly well-suited.

The Nakiri works smoothly and straight on the cutting board, while the Kamagata additionally offers a more precise tip for delicate tasks.

For meat, fish, and versatile all-around work, a Gyuto is the classic choice.

For long, clean pulling cuts through meat or fish, a Slicer is suitable. For traditional fish preparation, Deba and Yanagiba are intended.
4. Why do Japanese knives cut differently from European knives?

Japanese knives are usually harder, ground thinner, and designed more for precision. This allows them to cut cleaner, more directly, and with less resistance.

European knives are often more robust and more forgiving of rougher work. Japanese knives, on the other hand, offer more sharpness, control, and fineness in the cut, but require more deliberate handling.
5. Which knives are easy to care for and which require more effort?

Our rust-resistant lines, such as Damascus and Carbon, are easier to care for. Nevertheless, they should always be hand-washed and dried immediately.

Gyuto, Izutsuki, Marco, and Masamoto require more care because they use more traditional carbon steels. These blades can react to moisture, acid, and prolonged contact with food. However, they offer a particularly direct sharpness and a very traditional knife feel.

DAILY CARE

6. How do I properly clean my Japanese knife?

After each use, clean your knife by hand with water and dry it thoroughly immediately. If it's more heavily soiled, you can use a mild dish soap. It's important that the blade is never left wet for a long time. Especially with carbon steel, the knife should be cleaned and dried immediately.
7. May I use dish soap on my knife?

Yes, a mild dish soap can be used. However, avoid harsh or abrasive cleaning agents as well as steel wool, as they can damage the blade. For heavier soiling or discolouration, a rust eraser or an all-purpose cream cleaner (e.g. CIF) with a wine cork can be used to gently clean the surface.
8. Why shouldn't a Japanese knife be put in the dishwasher?

Japanese knives do not belong in the dishwasher. Heat, moisture, detergents, and movement can damage the blade, cutting edge, and handle. Even rust-resistant knives should always be cleaned by hand to maintain their sharpness, surface, and material in the long term.
9. Which cutting board is suitable for Japanese knives?

A natural wood cutting board is best. End-grain wood from bamboo, cherry, or oak is particularly suitable, as these materials are gentle on the fine edge and help maintain sharpness longer.

Glass, stone, ceramic, or very hard plastic boards are unsuitable because they can quickly dull or damage the blade.
10. How do I store my knife properly?

Store your knife dry and protected, for example, in a knife block, blade guard, knife bag, or a secure drawer solution. The edge should not rub unprotected against other knives or metal parts. For carbon steel, we recommend a little of our mineral oil for longer storage.

SHARPENING AND GRINDING

11. How do I know when my knife needs to be sharpened?

If you need more pressure when cutting, it's time to resharpen. Typical signs include tomato skin that is no longer cleanly cut, herbs that are crushed rather than cut, or a blade that no longer glides effortlessly through the food in general.
12. Which sharpening stone do I need for my knife?

For very dull knives or minor corrections, a coarse 400-grit stone is suitable. For regular sharpening, a 1000-grit stone is ideal. For the final fine polish and a particularly sharp edge, use a 6000-grit stone. Those who sharpen regularly usually work with all three stones: 400, 1000, and 6000.
13. What is the correct sharpening angle for Japanese knives?

Many Japanese knives are sharpened at a shallower angle than European knives. As a guide, we recommend approximately 12-15 degrees per side for double-beveled knives.

Single-beveled knives, such as Yanagiba or Deba, require a different technique and should ideally be sharpened by experienced individuals.
14. Can I use a honing steel for Japanese knives?

We do not recommend a classic carbide honing steel for Japanese knives. Many Japanese blades are harder and have a thinner grind than European knives. A carbide honing steel can damage the fine edge or put uneven stress on it. It is better to resharpen them on a suitable Japanese whetstone.
15. Should I sharpen my knife myself or use the sharpening service?

If you have experience with whetstones, you can resharpen your knife yourself. A stable angle, light pressure, and a consistent motion are important.
If you are unsure or your knife is damaged, we recommend our sharpening service.

In our sharpening workshops, we also show you how to properly sharpen and care for Japanese knives. You can find these in our "Service" section.

DAMAGES AND SERVICE

16. What to do about small chips in the cutting edge?

Small chips can often be corrected by professional resharpening. Do not continue to use the knife for hard products if you notice any damage. It is best to send us a picture by email so that we can assess the condition and recommend the appropriate service.
17. Can rust or discoloration be removed?

Slight discolorations or patina are normal for carbon steel and are part of the natural development of the knife. However, rust should be removed before it goes deeper into the blade. Depending on the condition, a rust eraser, a suitable cleaner (e.g., CIF) along with a wine cork, or our service can help.
18. When does my knife need repair or geometry correction?

A repair or geometry correction is useful if the blade has significant chips, cuts unevenly, has become too thick behind the edge, or has noticeably lost its original cutting performance. In such cases, normal resharpening is often no longer sufficient.
19. How does the sharpening service work?

You contact us via the contact form or by email and briefly describe your knife and the condition of the blade. We will then recommend the appropriate service for you.

For ISSHO TABERU knives, resharpening is free of charge. For knives of other brands, we charge CHF 1.50 per centimeter of blade length. Larger repairs are carried out by a knife maker in Switzerland and are charged according to effort.
20. Do you also offer repairs for knives of other brands?

Yes, we can also resharpen knives from other brands or have them checked for repair. Larger repairs are assessed individually, as every knife is constructed differently and the effort required depends on the condition of the blade.